Stella at Joey Eaton Centre

Many people are of the belief  that as a restaurant critic, there must be few restaurants that I love.

Nothing could be further from the truth and there are many that have a permanent place in my heart. One of those Joey Restaurant at the Eaton Centre. The food, service and vibe has always been exceptional, including a couple of weeks ago.

Hosting the World Draughts Championship, they had Belgian treats such as the waffles pictured above, mussels,  a charcuterie platter (even the candied pecans and olives were amazing) and homemade pretzels. Drool. And don’t forget the drinks – they’re so scrumptious, you have to be careful not to order 4 or 5!

A very intense pouring contest started soon after, where participants from Joey’s out on the west coast and from the States participated in the ritual that involves nine steps. They even allowed “regular” folks like myself to go and give it a try (thanks to Assistant Chef Kevin Wall of W. Broadway Joey’s in Vancouver for taking the picture).

It’s much harder than it looks and gave me a new appreciation for the people behind the tap.

The music was so great that Colleen (yes, Colleen Brown!), Brian (an amazing trumpet player and all around great guy) and I danced for much of the night.

Joey always throws a spectacular party, whether it’s just dinner for 2 or a table of 20. Thanks so much to Chef Chris Mills and Britt Innes for letting me come out and join in the fun. I can’t wait get back for dinner.

A Taste of Yucatán at c5

The Mexico Tourism Board hosted an evening at c5 at the ROM to coincide with the opening of their new Maya: Secrets of Their Ancient World exhibit.

The kitchen was helmed by Ted Corrado (recently promoted to Executive Chef at Compass Group Canada, pictured below) with Special Guest Chef Jose Hadad of Frida and Special Dessert Chef Michael Sacco.

There were some lovely speakers of the night, particularly the beautiful Gloria Guevara Manzo, Secretary of Tourism of Mexico. But for me the true excitement lay in the food and kitchen.

At events like there is a lot of hurry up and wait, something that if you’ve worked in the film and television industry, you’ll be familiar with. The kitchen has to hustle out the appetizers, but then wait while the speakers take the stage before moving onto the first course.

During the frenzied times, they go into a formation that I like to call the huddle. This is where they converge in a small area, rapidly plating items and discussing what should go where. I love the huddle because it’s the moment when weeks or months of hard work come together and it happens in a flash.

And then there is another long pause until the next course and the huddle forms again.

The dinner was an ode to Yucatán. Here’s the menu:

Botanas:

Sopes Verdes

Gordita de Carnitas

Empanada de Rajas con Queso

1st Course:

Sopa de Lime

2nd Course:

Pescado Tikin-Chik & Pollo Pibil

3rd Course:

Chocolate Tasting Trio

Included in the press kit for the evening was a beautiful cookbook – Mayan Cuisine: Recipes from the Yucatán Region – that will allow you to create authentic dishes at home.

Just think about how much more exciting mealtime will be with this at your side instead of relying on old winter standbys like Shephard’s Pie and Roast Chicken that you’ve been making every Sunday for the last decade.

Bring some sunshine into the kitchen this winter with Mayan Cuisine.

Happy Thanksgiving!

I’m just putting the finishing touches on Thanksgiving Dinner. I’ve made 2 sets – one for Scott and I and one for my folks, which I’ll drop off shortly.

Here’s this year’s menu:

Sweet Corn Soup

Roast Turkey with Honey & Rosemary Glaze (you’ll notice my lovely NorPro Turkey Timer in the picture above – it’s my new favourite kitchen tool!)

(Scott & I will also be having Dorie Greenspan’s Honey-Glazed Duck Breasts tonight and then turkey tomorrow)

Ruby Eats Cranberry Sauce

Traditional Stuffing

Red Beans & Rice (I can’t not have something Southern in there!)

Roasted Butternut Squash

Spinach, Kale & Onion Toss

All the Best Pumpkin Tarts (made from their Pumpkin Pie recipe)

Homemade Pumpkin Chocolate Cupcakes

Nanaimo Bars from Ruby Eats

I am so very thankful to you and everyone in my life. I hope that this holiday brings you peace, love and fantastic food whether that’s a grilled cheese sandwich in front of the TV or a home-cooked meal shared with family and friends.

Chef Lynn Crawford Dishes on Thanskgiving at Ruby Eats

It’s Canadian Thanksgiving weekend and Chef Lynn Crawford has a lot to be thankful for.

Having just shot close to 40 episodes of Pitchin’ In and finished the accompanying cookbook that will be out in January, her schedule is tight. But that hasn’t stopped her from running her insanely successful restaurant Ruby Watchco and opening her new food shop just doors away from the restaurant, Ruby Eats, where we sit at the front counter this morning to talk  Thanksgiving dishes and ingredients.

I have never met Lynn before today, but I am astonished by her energy. She has been on both coasts doing events and television shows and doing the restaurant and the book and the shop – and yet, when she sees a woman picking up a celery root with a long stalk of greens shooting out of it, she leaps outta her chair and goes to talk to the woman about it, giving her hints on how to use it. It’s just another 10 minutes before she’s up again to go help someone pick produce from the lovely baskets around the shop.

It is clear that this store, “an extension of Ruby Watchco,” is not just a chef’s pantry of local ingredients, books and prepared foods (all made in the Ruby Watchco kitchen just a few doors west), but her way of extending her joy and passion for food.

Here at the store, not only can you pick up local produce and cheese, but cooking tools and cookbooks. Sit and have a coffee. Nibble on a homemade nanaimo bar.

This morning there was a frenzy about the biscuits. Made fresh every morning with 10-year-old cheddar from the Ottawa Valley, handmade buttermilk, fresh chives and other herbs, they are the same biscuits made and served at the restaurant. And they are the same biscuits that have a devoted following – some of whom came close to bribing the staff about getting them (they are first come, first serve – no exceptions).

Decked out with pumpkins and hay stacks, I ask Lynn about her Thanksgiving meals growing up:

“My Father was in charge of the turkey and stuffing. Often when I’m going to a celebration of Thanksgiving and Christmas, I am asked to bring mashed potatoes. That’s it.”

Lynn worked the holidays for years while the Executive Chef at  The Four Seasons (Toronto, New York), so it’s only been these past couple that she’s had it off:

“That’s when chefs work. That’s what we do,” she says with not a trace of sadness.

Lynn’s passion about food is infectious. I bring up the topic of turkey alternatives (how do Americans do the two turkeys so close together, I’ll never know) and she starts building dishes right there in front of me. There is no actual ingredients in her hands, but the way she’s talking about it and caught up in it, there might as well be:

- Duck wrapped in smoked bacon with cranberry sauce

- Slow-roasted pork with an apple cider glaze.

- Scallops served with a carrot-ginger puree and pear chutney (she’s just been on both the west and east coasts and is enamored with scallops at the moment)

- Pumpkin-mushroom risotto with Niagara gold cheese

- Crisp veal paillard with sage and brown butter gnocchi

- Squab or quail with a shellac of pumpkin honey, topped with toasted pumpkin seeds

It goes on and on. Slow-roasted grapes, endives and chanterelles. Butternut squash, mushroom, leek and kale bread pudding. Celery root bisque…

I think I may have drooled on her chef clogs.

Thanks to Chef Lynn Crawford, my staid menu for Thanksgiving has suddenly been infused with excitement. As have I.

She is excited about this time of year:

“The celebration of the harvest and fall. It is such a magical season. The bounty. The smells and tastes – spices, apples, pumpkins, roast flavours. It’s a comforting season filled with warmth.”

And of course showcasing local wine and food producers is at the center of all of this. Her store and way of cooking is a testament to that, but also in the wines she likes:

“Inniskillin is one of my favourites. It’s a premier brand with such a huge reputation of great quality and taste. I always go to the Icewine.“

So if you suddenly need ingredients – or inspiration – head on over to Ruby Eats. And come on down on Saturday, October 22 when the restaurant and store will have their doors open for Take a Walk on Riverside.

Back on the Line

So after a summer of no cooking (and eating meals like the sandwich above),  I am thrilled to be back on the line.

That is, in my own kitchen.

Last week I made Southern meatloaf (pictured below before going in the oven) with greens and potatoes and tonight it’s veal chops with stuffed zucchini.

I’m back. And man does it feel good.

Watch for upcoming posts on the opening of Davos Restaurant on the Danforth, Sip & Savour Ontario’s Media Preview Event at Longo’s, my interview with Chef Lynn Crawford on how to create the perfect Thanksgiving Meal next weekend and much, much more.

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goLOCAL with the LCBO

A trip to Niagara midweek via private train to sip on wine all day? I am a lucky girl indeed. Especially considering that this “work.”

The LCBO’s Media Relations Consultant Trina Hendry and Man About Town Suresh Doss hosted about 40 media folk, on a day trip to some of Ontario’s finest vineyards last Wednesday.

We left on a private VIA train from Union Station. On board we were treated to breakfast and coffee and got a chance to meet new people and catch up with old friends.

We arrived at St. Catharine’s station where we were to board one of two buses. We were handed cards on the train that would indicate what bus we’d take and what vineyard we’d visit. We weren’t told a thing and I think that was one of the hardest parts of the day for many folks – just letting go of control and allowing someone else to take charge. Me? I loved it. It was a nice mental break, as I’m usually the person juggling 10 things and hosting a large group of people.

My bus took us to Coyote’s Run Estate Winery where we sampled mostly white wines, with one red, and where I fell in love with Rosie (pictured below) whose owners run the winery. After a chilly morning of sitting outside swirling and swishing delightful whites from Coyote’s Run, Peninsula Ridge Estates and Vincor, we were whisked away for lunch.

Lunch was arranged by Suresh, who is also responsible for us Torontonians having food trucks at all (Thank you, Suresh). We had the choice of Gorilla Cheese and El Gastrónomo and many people had both. All that drinking required some hearty eating.

The tempura cod tacos were perfection and the batter was surprisingly spicy. I loved the cucumber slices and green onions on the kimchi steamed buns which added crunch to the sumptuous meat. We enjoyed all of this at Creekside Winery where we were educated about their wines while we drank them. And drank them. We had to. It was our job.

We were given cards again and directed to the indicated buses. I ended up at Malivoire, where one of my favourite Gamays can be found (II had it first at a Japanese restaurant of all places!).

By this time, as you can imagine, the group was pretty tuckered. We had been drinking all morning. Now at 2, we looked like we needed a collective nap. However, winery owners from Strewn Winery and Cave Spring Cellars were lively and I worked my way through all 7 wines (I am a professional after all).

After our talk, we were taken back to the city, accompanied by a bagful of treats provided by The Pie Plate – Niagara’s sovereign coronation grapes 4 ways, Niagara peach tart, chocolate chili popcorn, slices of Niagara apples and pears and Upper Canada Cheese Company’s Cottage Gold Cheese.

Departing for the subway to head back home. I was tired but exuberant at the same time. After all, how often is it that you get to meet such passionate people? The winemakers I met on Wednesday spend their days making stellar products while frost and heavy rains play fate with their crops. All they have to go up against! Then there’s Trina who never stopped smiling or being the perfect hostess and Suresh who is one of the city’s best resources for all things food and wine. And I came home with new friendships – people I’d been following on Twitter but never met and some that I’d never known of before but now I hope to hang out with them.

Oh, and a long list of wines I’ll be purchasing at the LCBO.

Here are my top picks from the day’s tastings, all available at the LCBO.

Coyote’s Run 2009 Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir

Malivoire Red 2009

Cave Springs 2009 Pinot Noir

Thanks to everyone for showing me such a great time and giving me a day in the country. I had the best time.

Make the trip to wine country. There are over 140 licensed wineries including grape and fruit wineries in Ontario. Go to winecountryontario.ca and map out your route. Go Local. It’s all right here in our backyard.

What’s Cooking

This summer I made pasta twice.

Cooking only two times in about 4 months affected me deeply.

Our place was built in the 20s, so despite hardwood floors, a clawfoot tub and tons of charm, it hangs onto the heat for weeks. Part of that is because of the cement walls and wonky air flow and the other factor is that in the almost decade that we’ve been here, I’ve refused to put up curtains because we have this great view. Of course this means that the light pours in from 7 am until 9 pm, making watching television before 10 pm a nightmare (“What is Sookie doing? Is that Eric or Bill?”).

In past years, I have found it difficult to not be in the kitchen during the summer months, but it’s become so hot that it’s too hot to eat, never mind cook anything. That has always eased the ache.

But this summer I felt like I’d lost an entire limb. Maybe that’s because I’ve never felt more focused on food and cooking before. My chef coat hangs prominently where I can see it and dream about cooking in my restaurant. All spring, I used the restaurant pots that my fella got for me and every night as I prepped dinner, I called out orders as if I was working dinner service. I was living my dream without having to leave the comfort of my kitchen.

So during the sweltering days of May, June, July and August, we ate sandwiches and salads for dinner. We picked up take out and sat sticking to the leather couch, consuming more water than anything else.

And while my appetite for food never soared, my pull towards the kitchen continued. At one point in late July, I was agitated and restless. I thought maybe a needed a break from writing, so I went out for a walk to clear my head. It helped a little bit, but it didn’t last. A couple of hours later, I felt like I’d been cooped up in a cabin for 6 months without water or exercise. It was then that I realized that I hadn’t done one of the most joyous, rewarding activities in a long, long time.

Last night it went down to 18 degrees. By next week, I’ll be roasting chickens, simmering soups and making cakes from scratch.

I can’t wait.

Eat Healthy the Easy Way with The Organic Supper Club

Have you noticed how you don’t get together with even your closest friends anymore?

It’s because we’re all so crazy busy with our schedules spread out across the entire day – and night. So things that we used to spend time doing – grocery shopping and cooking – has gone out the window and now we eat with one hand while typing on our phone with the other.

But it can be challenging to find prepared food that:

1. Tastes good and

2. Is good for you.

That’s why if you’re in the Toronto area, you should get yourself signed up with The Organic Supper Club.

Founded and run by Jessica Esposito & Eddie Orso, everything they use is natural and organic. Their entire menu is vegan, organic and they also offer many gluten free and allergen-free options. And if you’re looking for something even more personalized, they’ll create a menu for you and just you!

They also provide fantastic services such as a personal chef, home and office delivery, their “One Week Vegan” program, workplace lunch delivery and special occasion meals.
The couple has a ‘no junk’ ingredient policy, which  means they “will not use an ingredient that can’t be eaten on it’s own.” Jessica and Eddie believe that “If you follow that rule, you will be free of chemicals, preservatives and other junk that seems to make it’s way onto the grocery shelf.” They also strongly believe that “there is a way to eat right.” This means “natural foods, grown without chemicals, the freshest possible vegetables, sweets free of refined sugars, ingredients sourced locally when possible, and food prepared in small batches by hand.”

The prepared meals and dishes have their ingredients listed on the containers so you know everything that’s in your food and they have extensive menus that include everything from breakfast items to dessert.

I tried their  Three Been Chili with Pineapple, which isn’t one of those thick, stomach stretching conconctions that you might be used to. Huge chunks of tomato and pineapple play off of pinto, white, and black beans kidney beans, sautéed garlic and onions  in a thin broth that makes it almost a tomato stew. What I like about it is that there is a ton of heat – they’re not afraid of spices here – and that they”ve used a lot of cumin (it’s a cumin-infused tomato sauce with rice vinegar and chipotle peppers), making it feel very exotic and far removed from “regular” chili.

Their Fiesta 7-Layer Dip employs cashews and brazil nuts to act as the “cheese”  and sour “cream” making it perfect for vegans and vegetarians. Thick refried beans, guacamole tomatoes, spices and green onions are  layered underneath. With blue corns chips, it makes for quite a filling snack, or paired with soup or salad, a hearty meal.

There are many dishes to choose from. So if you are short on time, but want healthy, nutritious, organic food, order from The Organic Supper Club.

Their line of organic, prepared foods can also be found at:

Organic Dufferin Grove Market

Every Thursday from 3pm to 7pm

Dufferin Grove Park

The Distillery District Sunday Market

Every Sunday from May 15 2011 to September 25 2011 10am-4pm
55 Mill Street, Toronto

Check out their Packages & Pricing and get yourself some good homemade food in a hurry.

Ontario Honey Gets Buzz. But is it the Right Kind?

One of my favourite times of year has arrived – the opening of the CNE.

The food is certainly a draw, as always, but I enjoy the buildings and exhibits just as much.

For the fifth year in a row, Ontario honey and beekeepers are a part of the show. You can learn all about the process of making honey (Ontario’s honey is produced yearly from July to September) as well as purchase health and beauty as well as food items made from local producers. You can even view live bees in one of the three observation hives.

I got a sneak peek before the Ex opened, and was greeted by Tibor Szabo from Szabo Queens.

This third generation bee keeper from Guelph gets a queen bee to sit on his face and then the rest of the hive joins her. The picture I took above is of him after just a few minutes of talking to the press. Take a look at what he looks like after about 10 minutes in a picture taken by Erin Hatfield for Inside Toronto.

Is this really the way to spread the message about Ontario’s bees and honey? Tell me what you think.

Laura Heaney & Katrina Atkinson At Broadview Espresso

Striking. Exhilarating. Thoughtful.

These are all words that I could use to describe artist Laura Heaney, but actually I’m talking about her latest works in the Food Show, with fellow artist Katrina Atkinson that is currently showing at Broadview Espresso until the end of August.

Laura’s  work appears to be photos at first glance, but this is just her deft hand with coloured pencils of all things. Her stunning  images of snack food icons such as Lay’s Dill Pickle Chips, Cheetos and Pringles are juxtaposed against fine draperies as in Dutch masters painting, illustrating that any food can be art – it doesn’t have to be foie gras atop a scallop to qualify.

Colleague Katrina showcases her mostly bold black-and-white works – a mix of ink and graphite – of the disconnect between us and our food and have the feel of old illustrations from the 60s and 70s. The mix of harvest and concrete is compelling. The work above is a vignette and one of Katrina’s larger pieces at the cafe. This mixed media drawing was composed with coloured pencil, watercolour pencil, graphite & graphite wash on mylar.

View these vivid images while nibbling on sweet treats and sip on what I consider the best cup of coffee in the city.

Food
Drawings by Katrina Atkinson & Laura Heaney
August 1 – 31 at Broadview Espresso, 817 Broadview Ave.
Gallery hours: Mon-Fri. 7am-7pm, Sat. 8am-6pm, Sun. 9am-5pm

P.s. Another artist that does great food is Shelley Savor. And if you’re food-obsessed like I am, you’ll want to get a whack of these artist-made tees, too.