One pot dinner

Now that it’s started to snow and the temperatures have dipped below zero, I think it’s safe to say that it’s one-pot cooking time – chilis, soup and stews, for example.

I love one-pot cooking. You can get so much into a dish without having to dirty up a bunch of pots. When you’re the one doing the cooking in the household, each week you should have, you need a one-pot meal to make the cleanup faster and easier.

I made a Beef Stew the other night (pictured above), which I made mostly from memory of stews past, but then found almost the exact ingredient in Lucinda Scala Quinn’s recipe in her new cookbook, Mad Hungry. It’s a fantastic basic one to keep on hand (or like me, make enough times in your life that it become ingrained like the lyrics to Britney Spears’ “Toxic” and the birthdate of all your ex boyfriends).

Mine was the same except for the amounts – I used 3 carrots instead of 5, 4 potatoes instead of 6, 2 pounds of beef instead of 4, 1 onion instead of 2, waaay less stock and no wine sadly (that’s what I get for drinking with it instead of cooking with it – when will I learn?). The Mad Hungry recipe is made big on purpose – so that you cook once and have a bunch leftover for the week. I used just what I had on hand, which is enough for us two and then some, while Lucinda’s serves 10-12, or as she writes, “or 6 for one meal, with leftovers to freeze for another.”

Lucinda’s Basic Beef Stew

5 large carrots, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks

4 celery stalks, peeled (2 finely diced, 2 sliced crosswise into 3/4-inch slices)

6 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks

4 pounds beef, cut into 2-inch chunks (use chuck stead or half chuck/half bottom round)

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons vegetables oil

1/4 cup all-purpose flour, for dredging

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 onions, chopped

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons tomato paste

3 sprigs of fresh thyme, or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme

1/2 cup red wine (optional)

8 cups beef or chicken broth

1 tablespoon hot red pepper sauce (optional)

1. Float the carrot, celery, and potato chunks in a large bowl of cold water until needed.

2. Toss the meat with a generous amount of salt and pepper. Heat a large Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Swirl the oil into the pot. Working in batches, coat the meat pieces in flour, and add to the pot. Brown on all sides, about 8 to 10 minutes, then transfer the browned meat to a plate. Repeat until all the meat is browned, adding more oil if necessary.

3. Pour off all but a few tablespoons of fat. Swirl in the butter. Add the onions, garlic, diced carrots, and diced celery. Cook on medium-low heat until lightly caramelized, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and the thyme and cook for 2 more minutes.

4. Raise the heat to high. Add the wine, if using (or 1/2 cup of broth), and stir to deglaze the pan, scraping up the browned bits stuck to the bottom. Return the meat to the pan and add the broth, which should cover the meat (add water if necessary). Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 2 hours.

5. Drain the carrots, celery and potato chunks. Add to the pot and cook until tender, 30 to 35 minutes. Remove 4 potato pieces, then mash them and stir back into the stew to slightly thicken the mixture. Stir in the hot sauce, if using. Taste and add more salt if necessary. Serve hot . (To freeze: Cool the stew and store in an airtight plastic container in the freezer for up to 3 months.

p.s. And just so you don’t bored of making stews, do what I did tonight – change it up and make it up. I made a Veal Stew with Za’tar, a Middle Eastern Spice made with thyme, sumac and sesame seeds. I also added leeks, celery, red pepper, garlic, parsley, peanut butter and tomatoes (ingredients pictured below) and served it over basmati rice. It sounds gross, probably, but it was like a African Stew I used to make. Completely and utterly comforting in a new and unfamiliar way.

Nothing beats stew, no matter what kind you make.

I’m not that fussy

In recent years, I have come to the realization that most people’s repertoire consists of dishes that I’ve either never made or only made once because they seem too fussy.

Take risotto, for example. I know it’s not difficult, but it sure is demanding – “stir constantly,” “cook for one minute, then add broth, while continuing to stir,” “stop stirring and your risotto will suck.”

That and it’s usually quite heavy and rich. And I like variation in my meal – one honking bowl of rice without much else doesn’t excite me the way a dinner of 2 or 3 items does.

So I have made risotto 2 times, I think, before now.

But I had my Cooking Light at my side and came across the recipe for Roasted Butternut Squash with Sugared Walnuts and was captivated by how healthy and simple it seemed.

Plus,  I had all of the ingredients on hand (I had a bottle of Chardonnay – below, which has never happened. Thanks to a roomful of red wine drinkers, it was leftover from a party) and I hadn’t defrosted anything. That, and this is one of the few recipes that doesn’t include cream or tons of butter (just a tablespoon – I didn’t think it was possible!). It seemed like it was meant to be made, I thought.

Yield: 8 servings (serving size: about 2/3 cup risotto, 1 1/2 teaspoons cheese, and 1 tablespoon nuts)

Ingredients

• 1/2  cup  coarsely chopped walnuts
• 1  tablespoon  butter, melted
• 1  teaspoon  brown sugar
• 1/8  teaspoon  freshly ground black pepper
• 2  cups  (1/2-inch) cubed peeled butternut squash
• 1  tablespoon  olive oil
• 2  teaspoons  minced fresh garlic
• 4  cups  fat-free, lower-sodium chicken broth
• 1/2  cup  water
• 1  ounce  pancetta, finely chopped (about 1/4 cup)
• 1  cup  finely chopped onion
• 1 1/4  cups  uncooked Arborio rice
• 1/2  cup  chardonnay
• 2  tablespoons  finely chopped fresh lemon thyme or 1 1/2 tablespoons thyme plus 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon rind
• 1/4  teaspoon  salt
• 1/4  teaspoon  freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4  cup  (1 ounce) shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Preparation

1. Preheat oven to 400°.

2. Arrange nuts in a single layer on a jelly-roll pan. Bake at 400° for 5 minutes or until toasted, stirring twice. Place nuts in a bowl. Drizzle butter over warm nuts; sprinkle with sugar and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Toss well to coat.

3. Combine squash and 1 tablespoon oil, tossing to coat. Arrange squash in a single layer on jelly-roll pan. Bake at 400° for 15 minutes or until squash is just tender. Remove from pan; stir in garlic. Set aside.

4. Bring broth and 1/2 cup water to a simmer in a saucepan (do not boil). Keep warm over low heat.

5. Heat a large saucepan over medium heat. Add pancetta to saucepan; cook 5 minutes or until browned, stirring frequently. Add onion; cook 3 minutes or until tender, stirring occasionally. Add rice; cook 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add wine; cook 1 minute or until liquid is nearly absorbed, stirring constantly. Add broth mixture, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring constantly until each portion of broth is absorbed before adding the next (about 20 minutes total). Stir in squash, thyme, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Top with cheese and nuts.

****

Despite a sore wrist from the constant stirring, it was fairly easy to make.

I love the addition of the sugared walnuts, which gave a nice depth and heartiness (not to mention, crunch) to the dish.

And the colour of this squash is just beautiful. What a nice meal for this time of year. Here it is, waiting to be added to the rice, along with tons of fresh thyme, garlic and onion.

For vegetarians, simply omit the pancetta and use vegetable stock instead of chicken.

Mmm, this would be a great choice for American Thanksgiving dinner tomorrow!

Fergalicious

Last night I had a dinner party for friends and neighbours. Here’s the menu above.

Out of all the dishes, the raves went to the insanely easy Black-Eyed Pea Salad.

The recipe is from Kevin Gillespie in Food & Wine’s September issue.

I love black-eyed peas (I really think I am a Southern girl at heart) and I liked that this was a creamy bean salad – something I haven’t seen a lot of. The cider vinegar gives the mayo a lift and a little bite. It’s a nice surprise, I think.

The only variations to the recipe I made was I omitted the Tabasco (I thought there was enough going on with the fresh garlic in the mashed potatoes and the spices in the pork loin) and used a roasted red pepper from the jar because I didn’t have a fresh one. And I never buy low-fat mayo. It’s the full version or nothing in this house.

Ingredients

1. 1 cup dried black-eyed peas
2. 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3. 1 medium sweet onion, finely diced
4. Salt
5. 1 red bell pepper
6. 2 large celery ribs, cut into 1/4-inch dice
7. 2 tablespoons low-fat mayonnaise
8. 4 teaspoons cider vinegar
9. 4 large scallions, green parts only, thinly sliced
10. Freshly ground black pepper
11. Tabasco Sauce, for seasoning

Directions

1. In a saucepan, cover the black-eyed peas with water and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat until tender, 45 minutes. Drain.
2. Meanwhile, in a skillet, heat the oil. Add the onion, season with salt and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, 8 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.
3. Roast the bell pepper directly over a gas flame or under the broiler, turning, until charred. Let cool. Peel and seed the bell pepper; cut into 1/4-inch dice.
4. In a saucepan of boiling salted water, cook the diced celery for 30 seconds. Drain, rinse under cold water and drain again.
5. Add the mayonnaise and vinegar to the onion. Fold in the black-eyed peas, bell pepper, celery and scallions; season with salt, pepper and Tabasco. Chill before serving.

Yes, it is tasty, tasty!

The James Beard Experience – the people

Because I didn’t start cooking until the 80s, I didn’t grow up making James Beard recipes.

Thankfully, my Mom did.

She had a small worn James Beard pocketbook that she culled recipes from. To this day, her meatloaf, or should I say how she made James Beard’s meatloaf, is one of my all-time favourite dishes.

It’s through recent years that I’m come to know the iconic Beard. Mostly through reading others impressions of him – Judith Jones in her book The Tenth Muse that I chose for the food book club that I run, Julia Child talked of his a lot.  I have yet to read his biography, but I think one of his books has the best title ever – Beard on Bread.

I know that he was a big deal and that any award or dinner with his name attached is epic. It means you have arrived. It means the culinary equivalent of the Pulitzer.

So when I graciously invited to this event, I was thrilled. What an occasion.

Only problem was, who was this kid, Chris Mills?

The JOEY Restaurant chain is new to Toronto. It is a West Coast phenomenon: British Columbia, Alberta, Manitoba and Washington. There is one location in T.O., opened September 19, 2009, at the newish Shops at Don Mills, and another is to come this spring to the Eaton Centre.

The hard part for us Torontonians is that we tend to be a little snooty about chains. That’s where people in the suburbs go. They’re made for the mainstream, we sniff.

So when I heard JOEY had opened, I avoided it. Like a woman in a fur coat and runners.

I don’t do big box places, I told friends.

Well, after Chef Chris Mills and team performance last night, I have to admit that I didn’t know what it was. I didn’t understand.

But you can see why, can’t you?

And so, let me introduce you to wunderkind Chef Chris Mills, via his bio on the JOEY website:

“Chris has been involved in the restaurant industry since the age of 14, holding various front-of-the-house positions before moving to the kitchen at 20, where he has translated a passion for food into a dynamic career.

The James Beard Experience – behind the scenes

I had the absolute privilege to go “backstage” and see Chef Chris Mills and his impressive team in action, plating our 6 course dinner.  I hope you enjoy the photos.

Oh, and in case the amount of people honing in on every single dish going out to 50 people isn’t impressive enough, the event space, The Burroughes Building, has no kitchen. It’s just an empty space, so Chef Mills and his team were cooking on induction cooker elements!

Chef Mills overseeing the process

Instructing the team

The team gets right in there

Clock’s ticking

Adhering to the schedule

Order up

On its way

Thanks to everyone for allowing me this glimpse into the backstage. I will never forget it.

Tomorrow, the final installation – an introduction to the men behind this evening: James Beard and Chef Chris Mills.

The James Beard Experience – dinner

I’ve never been to a JOEY restaurant and I’d never heard of Chef Chris Mills before this dinner, so I had no idea what to expect in the way of food.

Here’s what I had:

Dinner

Citrus-Cured Haida Gwaii Salmon with Dungeness Crab Flan & Cornbread

L’ecole 41 “Walla Voila” Chenin Blanc, Washington

Alaskan Black Cod, BBQ Pork Belly & Squash Dumpling in a Matsutake Mushroom Broth

Sandhill “Small Lots” Viognier, British Columbia

Bonus Apple Salad Course (to cleanse the palate)

Licorice Lacquered Duck Breast, Summer Cherry Conserve, with a Hazelnut-Crusted Korean Duck Roll

Sonoma Cutrer “Russian Valley River” Pinot Noir, California

45-Day-aged Beef Rib with Yukon Gold Potato, Braised Oxtail & Black Trumpet Mushroom Lasagna & Bellmann Farm Carrots

Efeste “Ceidleigh” Syrah, Washington

Dessert

Vietnamese Banana Cake with Tropical Fruit Salad & Toasted Coconut Ice Cream

Inniskillin “Okanagan” Riesling Ice Wine, British Columbia

And they brought out Financiers! Did I start a trend?

As a restaurant reviewer, I have had the good fortune of having a lot of sumptuous, memorable meals.

None have ever  been like this.

Where everything is done to perfection, where flavours abound and delight. Where memories of meals from childhood come floating up, where tastes tangle and tantalize. None that have taken me from awe-inspiring to mesmerizing through all 5 (+ bonus salad = 6) courses. And not only that, but it was done for about 50 of us.

It was one of the greatest, finest meals of my life.

And I got to see how it was done.

Tune in tomorrow for a behind-the-scenes look at how this epic meal was created!

[All photos by Stephanie Dickison - please do not use without permission. Thank you.]

The James Beard Experience – hors d’oeuvres

Last week I had the honour of going to this dinner:

We invite you and a guest to join us on Wednesday, November 3 at 6 p.m. at the Burroughes Building to experience a preview dinner of Executive Chef Chris Mills’ Pacific Rim-inspired five-course meal. It is an exclusive opportunity to sample Chef Mills’ menu and wine pairings in advance of his presentation in New York City at the renowned culinary institution James Beard House.

The hors d’oeuvres menu was as follows:

(Note: The photos here are ones I took. Please don’t use them without permission.)

Hors D’Oeuvres

Peaches & Cream Chicken Corndog

Japanese Hummus

Chicken Tacos

Pacific Tuna Chopsticks

My beautiful friend Diana and I ate them all.

Along with many glasses o’ Joie Rose out of British Columbia… JOEY peeps know how to par-tay.

The Chicken Corndog was one of the best (and whitest) pieces of chicken I have ever had. Everything was served by the Regional Managers (Assistant to the Regional Manager?) of JOEY Restaurants, which made for a fun experience.

Not so much for them, perhaps.

Tomorrow, I’ll share the sit-down dinner menu.

In the meantime, see pics from the event courtesy of The Globe & Mail. You might recognize the lady on slide 5…

Down the rabbit hole

Rabbit is one the touchiest subjects when it comes to food (Horse even more so. To read more about that, read Chapter 44 “Buffalo Stance” in my book, The 30-Second Commute: A Non-Fiction Comedy About Writing & Working From Home ).

I tried asking people how they cook theirs, only to be quickly ushered out of houses and shops.

I tried looking it up in cookbooks and online, but all I could find was Ye Ole recipes for “Wild Hare” where you stuff a whole rabbit with its kidneys and then cover it in caul  fat, and one where you after you’ve killed it yourself, you skin it and hang it upside down to let the blood… Well, you get the picture.

So I winged it, as usual.

I had bought Rabbit Saddles (part of the backbone and both loins) so I had no idea how long to cook them for, without the rest for reference.

I plodded ahead. I set the oven to preheat while I made a marinade of olive oil, garlic and fresh sage and rosemary (picture above).

I cooked them for about 18 minutes and they turned out well, I think. I made wild rice and braised carrots with chili.

Have you ever cooked rabbit, and if so, what did you do?